Food

5ive Spice

As an adventurous eater, somehow I never tried pho. That mistake has been rectified with a visit to 5ive Spice (no that’s not a typo) on 5th Avenue in Brooklyn.

The house pho was delicious, with a flavorful, steaming broth containing delicious noodles, bean sprouts and tender short rib. How did I miss this all these years? The Banh Mi (Vietnamese sandwich) was also tasty, wrapped in a freshly baked baguette. Others raved about the spring and summer rolls and the Asian catfish tacos.

The place is cute and intimate, with a hidden bathroom behind a bookshelf. The only two downsides are the basil they put in the tap water (makes it a bit bitter) and that its cash only. But the prices are so reasonable you won’t mind (our dinner for two cost about $30 total, with tip).

5ive Spice is walking distance from Barclays Center, and a real boost to the Park Slope dining scene. Enjoy!

52 Fifth Avenue, Park Slope, Brooklyn

The Milling Room

Looking quite modest from the outside, The Milling Room is spacious, light, airy and modern, with a huge skylight. While the bar can get a bit noisy, the tables in the large dining area are well spaced, and one can converse without feeling like your neighboring table is part of the conversation.

The food is a cut above. A grilled octopus appetizer was delicious, although the roast beet salad was a bit more pedestrian. The entrée selection is far from extensive, but what they do they do well. Particularly tasty is the braised duck pappadelle, with porcini, “aromatic” vegetables and parmesan.

The waiter talked me into trying the grilled Berkshire Pork Chop, “the best thing on the menu.” It wasn’t. Perhaps he never tried the pappadelle.

For dessert, don’t miss the warm chocolate cake with vanilla gelato. Heavenly!

(Columbus Avenue, between 81st and 82nd Streets)

Nice Matin

I ate lunch here when it first opened, and wasn’t particularly impressed. I returned about six months ago, and it has since become one of my go-to neighborhood places. Good food. Good people. Nice décor and cozy inside and outside seating. We ordered the hummus with flatbread appetizer–the best I ever had. When we asked the waiter how they make it, he went into the kitchen and got the recipe! (they use fava beans instead of chick peas).

We have since tried the Moroccan Spiced Salmon, the Ravioli Nissarda with short ribs and the Hanger Steak Au Poivre. All delicious, with generous portions. Three course prix fixe dinners for $38 ($23–28 for lunch) are well worth it.

The bread is freshly baked and served with soft butter sitting in a top-notch olive oil dipping sauce. From start to finish, Nice Matin is, well, really nice!

(corner of Amsterdam Ave. and 79th Street)

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Lincoln Square Steak

The Upper West Side has needed a decent steak house for a long time. It still does.

Based on glowing, 5-star reviews on Yelp (from family and friends?) we went to Lincoln Square Steak House last night. The service was fine. The owner was pleasant. The food was neither.

I went big time and ordered the 24 oz. rib eye. It obviously wasn’t 24 oz–not even close. It also was chewy and mediocre. $54 dollars for a lousy, small steak. Grr…

My girlfriend ordered a 12 oz hamburger. It was much less 12 ounces, and nothing special. We also split a rather tasteless Caesar Salad and a ho-hum crabcake about half the size of what is served at Old Homestead and other top steakhouses.

When we got the bill, I thought of all the great restaurants in NYC we could have enjoyed for this splurge. Grr… Skip it!

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Rosa Mexicana

Along with Rocking Horse Café, this ties for my favorite Mexican restaurant in the city. Rosa Mexicana is a little more upscale, but worth it. The place is beautiful, with a wall of cascading water flecked with sea divers. The service is professional and upbeat. And the food will even please the palate of those who can take or leave Mexican food–you’ll take this, believe me.

Lunch is the best time to go. For $25, you can enjoy a memorable three course meal. Start with the guacamole–the best I’ve ever tasted, made tableside. For the main course, I suggest the three enchiladas–cheese, chicken and short rib. I request all three be short rib, and they accomodate–why settle for excellent when you can get spectacular?

For dessert, get the churros en bolsa (Mexican cinnamon doughnuts) in three dipping sauces. The chocolate sauce is so outstanding it will make you faint.

Then digest your food relaxing at the Lincoln Center fountain, directly across the street. Enjoy!

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Burger & Lobster

We strolled into Burger & Lobster in the Flatiron District and waited for a menu. It took us a while to realize the drink menu on the table was all we’d get. No need for a food menu. All they serve is, yep, burger and lobster.

For $20, you can get a 1 and 1/2 pound lobster (steamed or grilled), a lobster roll, or a really big burger. They all come with a side of fries and a salad. That’s it.

And that’s enough. The grilled lobster I got was cooked perfectly, the fries and small salad were pretty good. I took a couple of bites of the juicy burger; I’d give it a B+. I didn’t try the lobster roll yet, but hear that it’s the best thing on the menu, so will definitely go for that next time.

If you choose the regular lobster, be sure to ask for the lemon garlic butter. Delicious!

What’s that you say? Twenty dollars is pretty good for a lobster meal, less so for a burger? Not only is the burger huge, but all toppings, (cheese, bacon, etc) are free!

They only have two desserts: chocolate mousse and cheesecake. We took a pass on those. The place is enormous, so there is rarely a wait.

When you walk in, you are greeted by a huge tank with monstrous size lobsters. You can order a 10 pounder for $200. I dare you.

But the one I got was well worth the 20 bucks. Nothing fancy about this friendly, warehouse-y place with a slight hipster vibe. Long tables. Nice bar. No waiting. Check it out.

39 West 19th Street (5th/6th Avenue)

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Scalini Fedeli

Birthday approaching? Anniversary? Just feel like splurging and celebrating life?

You could do a lot worse than Scalini Fedeli. In truth, I can’t think offhand of a restaurant where you could do better. The food is delicious, the service top-notch, and while the prix fixe $75 dinner is a bit steep, it is actually reasonable compared to the $100-$200 prix fixe at other top-tier restaurants.

The three course menu is imposing, with a choice of nearly 20 appetizers. I went with the Pappardelle in a Spicy Veal Shank and Pancetta Bolognese, and it was delicious. Before it arrived, we were treated to an on-the-house mushroom ravioli with a cream puree. Equally delicious.

For a main course, you can’t go wrong with the the braised short rib or the mushroom and black truffle crusted Arctic Char over crab meat and spinach.

Before dessert, a lemon sorbet in coconut milk palate cleanser was a nice surprise, and the chocolate napoleon with hazelnut ice cream dessert a winner.

The room is understated and elegant, the service efficient and unobtrusive, and the dress code business casual. No, you can’t do this every day (at least I can’t)– but you’ll wish you could.

165 Duane Street, Tribeca, NYC

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Bustan

When a hot new restaurant opens in my neighborhood, I am eager to try it. The great reviews of this Mediterranean hot spot in Yelp made me all the more eager to go. With lines out the door, we got there at 5:30p.m., and snagged a table. Yes!

The place is beautiful, with a cool vibe and outside patio in the back. What could go wrong?

We started with great drinks and a trio of Mazettim spreads: hummus, smoked eggplant and tzatziki, served with a delicious homemade foccacia. A wonderful dish!

Everyone on Yelp raved about the Lamb Terracota, so I made sure to order it. With ground lamb kebob, grilled vegetables and pistachio baked into a flaky bread dough, it arrived piping hot and looking great. The server cut along the perimeter and peeled back the bread–voila!

I eagerly take the first bite. It couldn’t be more bland. I pour pepper on it, yet it still lacks bite. The ground meat is pedestrian, the dough is heavy. The salad my partner ordered is nothing special. What were these Yelpers thinking?

Perhaps I caught this place on a bad night. Is Bustan a bust? Not quite. If you go and stick to the drinks and appetizers, you might rave about it too. As I said ,the place is gorgeous, and the servers gracious. As my father used to reply in situations like this when a waiter would ask “How is everything?” “Everything is great! The food? Ehh…”

Bustan is at 487 Amsterdam Avenue (83rd/84th Street)

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Alchemy

A comfortable pub nestled on 5th Avenue in Park Slope, Brooklyn, Alchemy has some creative dishes to offer. The best one I’ve tasted is the mussels in a selection of three different styles. The coconut/chili/basil is by far the best ($12; $6 on “Mussel Mondays”)

All wine, draft beer and well drinks are $4 during its popular Happy Hour (4-6:30 pm). People rave about the chorizo eggs at brunch, as well as the Chocolate Croissant Bread Pudding, but now that I’m eating healthy, I passed them up. I had the hanger steak (ok, not that healthy) which was great one night, tough and chewy another.

Less than a five minute walk from Barkley’s Center, the pub has become a popular pre-Net game, pre concert spot. Complimentary toasted chick peas are a nice touch. Worth a visit__but make sure you get the mussels!

Alchemy, 56 5th Avenue, Brooklyn

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Ocean Grill

This seafood place used to be decent. Those days are over.

I decided to treat myself this week and ordered the 2 pound lobster.  They brought me a lobster filled with breading! It did NOT say stuffed lobster on the menu, and when I told the clueless waitress (the entire wait staff seemed shabby and inept), she said “Sometimes they stuff the lobster, sometimes they don’t.” Are they kidding?

I’m sure they used my lobster meat for someone else’s lobster salad, bisque, whatever– but I paid for it. The lobster itself was rather tasteless–like it had been frozen.
No substitute lobster was offered, and I left with a bad taste in my mouth, literally and figuratively. You’ve been warned.

Ocean Grill, 384 Columbus Avenue, NYC

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Chola

Indian buffets were never my thing. Too often the food sits around, you get limited choices and leave disatisfied and dyspeptic. Not so with Chola, one of the best Indian buffets I’ve ever had.

Lunch buffet is the way to go here. For $13.95, you get a terrific selection of fresh, delicious entrees and side dishes, from wonderful chicken tikka marsala to chili chicken to lamb to savory vegetable choices. Meanwhile the attentive staff refills your water dish, clears your plate while you go back and brings fresh nan, tandori drumsticks and potato pakoras right to your table.

The midtown east location is on the same block as top rated Indian restaurant Dawat, but I believe Chola measures up in every way__at less expense. Chola is classy, low key and consistent. Everything is hot and the waiters are the best. If you are in the Bloomingdale’s area, drop by__you won’t be sorry.

Chola: 232 East 58th Street, between 2nd and 3rd Avenues

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Jacob’s Pickles

I finally got around to trying Jacob’s Pickles, the trendy new restaurant in my Upper West Side neighborhood, and I’m here to report that it’s…ok.

Not bad. The food tastes pretty good. The ambiance is nice. Do you sense a lack of enthusiasm?

The place is mobbed at night, so I went in the afternoon and had one of their signature dishes: fried chicken with biscuits and cheesy grits. The chicken was good. The grits were very cheesy. The mushroom gravy poured on top was a half step above Campbell’s Soup cream of mushroom.

And yes, the pickles. You could order 4 for $11. You could order all types of pickles. You could have battered and fried pickles. You could be rushed to Roosevelt Hospital.

I would risk that, for a great meal. But this one was…ok. When I needed the check, no one was around for ten minutes. I looked longingly across the street, at Flor de Mayo, and realized I could have had their pollo a la brasa, which was rated by the New York Times as the best chicken in the city, at half the price. And it would have been twice as good.

But Flor de Mayo is far from trendy. Just great food. The eats at Jacob’s Pickles? It’s…Well, I think you get the picture.

Jacob’s Pickles, 509 Amsterdam Avenue, between 84th-85th Streets.

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Is this Page becoming the Food Blog Version of the Sports Illustrated Jinx?

Seems that whenever Sports Illustrated features an athlete on its cover, he immediately breaks a leg or worse.

I hope this page isn’t following a similar path of hexes.

My last food blog was about fabulous Sarge’s deli, probably the only authentic, worthwhile kosher deli beside Katz’s (which is going downhill) left in Manhattan.

Two weeks after I wrote the column Sarge’s burned to the ground in a four alarm fire.

Right before that, I wrote about Tale Thai, a terrific Thai spot on the Upper West Side.

Soon after, Tale Thai was shuttered.

That’s why you haven’t seen any reviews of my favorite restaurants lately. I’ve been traumatized. And I need somewhere to eat.

I’ll give it another try soon. Favorite restaurants beware.
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Sarge’s Deli

When I was a kid in Brooklyn, I would stroll down Avenue J and have my choice of the best ethnic restaurants on the planet. Yes, everyone remembers their old neighborhood as having “the best” this and that, but when I became an adult I realized this was actually the case.

For example, my old pizza hangout was a dump called Di Fara, where my older friend Lenny would play “Soldier Boy” on the corner jukebox over and over when he was home on leave from the Army until Dom the owner would get disgusted and throw him out. But we thought Dom’s pizza was the best.

What did we punk teenagers know? Obviously a lot. Flash forward to 2012, and hole-in-the-wall Di Fara is rated the #1 pizza in New York City by Zagat’s, with a 26 rating!

Similarly, Golden Deli on Avenue J was the best kosher deli I’ve ever tried by far. Marvin the owner ran a tight ship, and I can still remember when he came out from behind the counter, all 300 pounds of him, effortlessly lifting a nasty, cursing patron from his chair and unceremoniously tossing him onto the curb.

Unfortunately, the Golden Deli (and Marvin) have passed on, and I’ve been searching for a good Jewish deli in vain for years since.

Until I came upon Sarge’s.

Sarge’s Deli is the real deal. Unlike the more famous Carnegie and Stage, which are tourist trap abominations, Sarge’s is an unpretentious, authentic deli that serves great kosher food at reasonable prices. Sarge’s is the only deli in NYC that cures its own corned beef and pastrami on premises, and one delicious bite of either confirms that.

The soups are terrific, and the lunch specials well worth it, where you can get a choice of soup, beverage, two different half sandwiches and Sarge’s incredible, freshly cut french fries for $13. Unlike many delis today that serve only white meat turkey (a sure sign that that don’t prepare it in the restaurant), Sarge’s serves turkey legs with gravy and all the trimmings.

Dinner comes with Sarge’s terrific chopped liver, gratis. The restaurant is open–and delivers–24 hours a day, seven days a week.

If you are looking for an upscale-looking “modern” deli, go elsewhere. But if you want authentic and mouth-watering (even Katz’s has gone downhill lately, and the 2nd Avenue Deli is now a ripoff lost cause), your best (and last) resort is Sarge’s Deli. No, it’s not Marvin’s Golden, but it’s the closest you’re going to get.

(Sarge’s Deli, 548 3rd Avenue, between 36th and 37th Street, open 24/7.)
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Tale Thai

Location, location, location. While Tale Thai Cuisine seems well situated on the Upper West Side, its mid-block Columbus Avenue spot between W.84th and W.85th Streets has served as the Bermuda triangle of restaurants. I remember at least six in the past decade, some of them pretty decent. They all closed before they were two years old.

Now comes Tale, a really good, reasonably priced and beautiful looking Thai restaurant. Hope they make it, because I really like the shrimp/pork dumplings, the spicy, seared tuna salad, and most of the other tasty appetizers. The drunken noodles are an excellent main dish, served with chicken, pork, duck or mixed vegetables, just spicy enough and a bargain at $9 to $11 a generous serving.

The three course lunch specials are an incredible bargain, with soup, an extensive choice of appetizer plus main dish for under $10. The servers are friendly and efficient, and there is never a line. Which is both good and bad. Yeah, you can get in–but will it be there the next time you visit?

(addendum: The answer is no. Tale has shut down. The Bermuda Triangle location strikes again!)

 Big Nick’s    

    People may break into tears the first time they experience Big Nick’s, the one-of-a-kind Upper West Side neighborhood institution, and it’s 50-50 whether they’ll be tears of horror or joy.
      This place is the all-time dive–Guy Fieri should be ashamed of himself for missing it.

The time warp feel of the tight quarters, shabby decor with old school B list actors beaming down on you from the walls and a few oddly placed tables all contribute to its weird ambiance. 

      Meanwhile, the menu is just slightly shorter than War and Peace. How can they cook all that food in that tiny excuse for a kitchen up front? The menu ranges from huge, tasty burgers (40 varieties, including an ostrich burger) to pizza (30 varieties) to challah french toast to stuffed grape leaves to mussels marinara to tenderloin steak to to fried clams parmigiana to a giant spinach pie.

 

    The soups range from a hearty chicken, pasta and fresh vegetables ($3.50) to an ambitious, deluxe seafood boulliabaisse ($15.30).
        I usually order the Potato and Pot Roast Melt on a Hero, which includes pot roast “au jus”, seasoned waffle fries (yes, on the sandwich), fried onions, green peppers, mushrooms and gruyere cheese packed on a toasted garlic hero. Delicious.
        You can wash that down with an egg cream or Dr. Brown’s soda, and finish off with a banana split, warm pecan pie, baklava or a jumbo black and white cookie.

 
Big Nicks is open 23 (not 24) hours a day, with indoor or outdoor seating.  It’s an only-in-New York experience, and you’ve got to try it at least once. Just don’t say you weren’t warned.

        2175 Broadway, off West 77th Street.
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Chopped–Lunch Lady Episode:   

Chopped is my favorite Food Network show, despite the fact that too many of the guest chefs have arrogant, “I deserve to win because I am superior” attitudes. This certainly wasn’t the case with the four wonderful women on the “Lunch Lady” Thanksgiving episode.

Supposedly on the show to promote childhood healthy eating, they exposed a more important issue: childhood hunger. About 25% of American children go hungry each day, a fact virtually ignored by politicians often debating about how to screw these poor kids even further.

But I digress. The four competitors were as un-glam and down to earth as could be, all working class, each of whom could  clearly benefit from the $10,000 prize given to the winner. But they genuinely and selflessly supported each other throughout the show, putting the narcissistic chefs who too often dominate Chopped to shame.

They also were surprisingly inventive cooks, and it didn’t seem condescending at all when one of the judges said “you aren’t simply  lunch ladies, you’re true chefs.”Knowing that most of the children in her school get little or literally nothing to eat over the weekend, one of the lunch ladies slips food into their backpacks each Friday so they won’t go hungry.

The episode was extremely moving and truly captured the spirit of Thanksgiving. Congratulations to The Food Network for airing it, and above all to lunch ladies for renewing hope in the human race.The episode will be repeated all Thanksgiving week. Don’t miss it.

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         Real Cheap Eats:

          New York Magazine recently ran its “Cheap Eats” issue. Were these articles written by real New Yorkers? Most of these places and dishes are overpriced and underwhelming. (Memo to NY Mag: a $18-$20 meal is not “cheap eats” to most New Yorkers).
          Here are two real–and delicious–“cheap eats” meals:
            1) Cuban Roast Ham and Moro Rice; La Caridad, Broadway and 78th Street. Succulent pork in natural juices and fresh garlic. Amazing! (Saturday and Sunday only, all day);
              2) Spring Roll and Banh Mi Sandwich; Bao Noodles, 2nd Avenue between 22nd and 23rd Street. Other tasty Vietnamese appetizers and main dishes are also available, but this combo is my favorite. (11:30 a.m to 4p.m. weekdays) A ten dollar bill will do it for both.

 

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Aquagrill

            Aquagrill is an unpretentious, laid back seafood restaurant that serves the freshest fish in town. Not cheap, but worth the splurge (figure about $100 for two without drinks).
            The basket of fresh baked breads, including a wonderful onion foccacia,  and the complimentary salmon tartare alert you immediately that you’re in for a great dining experience.
            The Billi bi mussel soup is extraordinary. If they only served this creamy, astounding appetizer and nothing else, I’d still visit regularly. Even if you’re not a big mussel fan, this is well worth trying.
            Aquagrill has a well-deserved reputation as an oyster-lovers paradise, with over 20 varieties. If you’re a novice, this is a great place to learn the difference between East Coast and West Coast oysters__all fresh, delicious and shucked right at the bar up front.
            You can’t go wrong with any of the simply grilled fish entrees, but I usually go for the seared diver scallops with crabmeat risotto. As with the Billi Bi soup, those who don’t care for scallops have second thoughts after sampling this terrific dish.
            For lunch or brunch, I recommend the grilled rare yellowfin tuna sandwich on Ciabetti bread with arugula, avocado, grilled onions and a side of fries. Well worth the $12.50 tab.
            The hostess and servers are friendly and professional. The only downside is the tables are packed a little too close together, but don’t let that stop you. You’ll forget about that as soon as you get your first course.
              But don’t come with anyone who isn’t a seafood lover. I did and regretted it immediately. This person rejected my suggestion of the Billi bi soup because it was too “weird”, ordered the clam chowder and a hamburger, then proclaimed the place overrated. Aagh!But for the rest of us, there is no better seafood restaurant in Manhattan.Aquagrill: 210 Spring Street/6th Avenue, on the edge of Soho

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Chirpin’ Chicken: Good n’ Plenty

East Side, West Side…If you’re looking for tasty, healthy, cheap and quick chicken in Manhattan, there’s one great place to go: Chirpin’ Chicken. Ok, actually two: Chirpin’ East and Chirpin’ West.

The superior Chirpin’ Chicken is on the West Side of Manhattan, at Amsterdam and 77th. The original was a dump across the street, but after the owner’s daughter won the lottery, a much more appealing, triple-the-size location opened directly across the way at 355 Amsterdam.

I go at least once a week, and so, it seems, do half the people on the Upper West Side. While trendy Shake Shack gets all the publicity (there’s one a block away) and even larger mobs, I think that place is overrated. Yes I know, heresy, but if I can’t get my burger medium rare, plump and made to order, I don’t want it.

But untrendy Chirpin’ Chicken is the real deal. Moist and succulent on the inside and nicely charred and seasoned on the outside, the half chicken meal for $9.99 is most popular.  I usually order the quarter chicken, quarter ribs, side dish (superior roasted potatoes) and a salad (with caesar dressing): a huge dish for the moderate price of $11.29. They also throw in a free side of home made pita bread and a delicious tomato salsa dipping sauce.

The place is open from 10 a.m. until 2 a.m.  Try to go off hours if you’d like to find a table. Or better yet, don’t go at all. When I order in (I’m a half mile away), the food seems to arrive at my door, fresh and hot, about two minutes after I get off the phone. I don’t know how they do it either.

West Side: 355 Amsterdam (77th); East Side: (a hole in the wall but the same chicken–almost) 1260 Lexington (85th-84th).

 Just Desserts

For the holidays, everyone will be bringing special pies and elaborate cakes to their dinners with family and friends. What can you bring that will make you stand out?

1) Two Little Red Hens’ Brooklyn Blackout Cupcakes: When I was a kid in Brooklyn, I would salivate when I saw the distinctive Ebinger’s Bakery box, hoping it contained its one-of-a-kind blackout cake–the best cake I’ve eaten to this day. The Two Little Red Hens locations in Manhattan and Brooklyn have copied this exclusive Ebinger’s formula with its Brooklyn Blackout Cupcakes.

The cupcakes offer incredibly moist chocolate wrapped around a delicious pudding center. Its hard to capture in words how mind-blowingly great it tastes. The price might blow your mind as well ($4 each), but its worth getting them for these special occasions. (1652 2nd Avenue, Manhattan; 1112 8th Avenue, Brooklyn)

Levian’s Chocolate Chip Cookies: The lone Levian’s outlet on Manhattan’s West 74th Street offers this astounding cookie for the same astounding price–$4. Yes, it’s ridiculous, but it weighs so much it can serve double duty as a barbell to tone up as you carry it home.

This is a cookie that you will either love or hate. It’s more like a piece of cake, but I think it’s delicious, and the long lines indicate I’m not alone. (167 West 74th Street)

Zabar’s Chocolate Croissants: Yeah, it’s not as unique as the two above-mentioned desserts, but it ranks up there with the best in New York, at about half the price. For $1.75 each, you can be a sport and bring a few. Make sure to put them in the microwave for about 10-15 seconds, then stand back for the heaping platters of praise you will receive. (Broadway and 80th Street, Manhattan)

Off the Asian Path:

When most people think of Asian food, they think Chinese, Japanese or  Thai. But there are three excellent, reasonably-priced restaurants in the city (actually a heck of a lot more, but these are my three favorites) that offer unique varieties of Asian-style food that will goose your palate while being gentle on your wallet:

1) Fusha: The most upscale of the three, Fusha offers “contemporary Asian” choices. Appetizers include broiled miso black cod with grilled red pepper, eggplant and green curry ($13). The “Almost Japanese” section of the menu offers a spicy tuna tortilla ($12) as well as a “tapas sampler”, which includes edamane salad, seas scallop cerviche, salmon carpaccio and kinchi topshell clam, for all of $10.

Lunch is a bargain, with steamed flounder with black bean sauce my particular favorite.    It is served with miso soup, salad and shrimp shumai for $9.95.                                           (311 Amsterdam and 75th)

2)  Bao Noodles: This Second Avenue gem offers such Vietnamese-style dishes as eggplant with shrimp ($9.95) and delicious, non-greasy spring rolls on rice vermicelli ($8.95). The place also offers great Banh Mi sandwiches, with a choice of chicken, pork ($5.95) or shrimp ($6.95) The baguettes come with cucumber, daikon, cilentro and mayo–and will knock you out!                                                                                                      (391 Second Avenue, 22nd-23rd)

3) Flor de Mayo: I’ve never had a bad meal in this place. The Chinese-Peruvian icon offers the best rotisserie chicken (“pollo de la brasca”) in the city, according the NY Times and everyone who has eaten it. All the lunches are a steal and include soup and salad. I’d also try the “Peruvian Special” Tallarin Saltado (sliced steak sauteed with tomatoes and onions mixed in with noodles) or the “Hong Kong Special” Chow Har Kew (breaded fresh jumbo shrimp sauteed with fresh garden vegetables over yellow rice).                                 (484 Amsterdam Avenue, 83/84th Street)

Restaurants of the Week:

When I visit Chinatown, I keep it limited to two great destinations:

Great New York Noodletown, and New Wonton Garden.

Just the names make me smile (although I can do without the word “Great” that Noodletown added a while back–I’ll be the judge of that!)

And I don’t care that David Bouley once listed Noodletown as the place he visits when he wants a great, simple meal, or that David Cheng is also a frequent visitor. I care about the eats.

Frankly, the place is a dump. Non-existent decor, indifferent waiters, and you may be planted at a huge round table of strangers. But it’s the food, stupid!

And wow, is it great. The incredible wonton soup with roast pork or roast duck (a huge bowl for $5.95-6.95), the succulent roasted meats, the spicy beef chow fon and, if you feeel like splurging, the pepper shrimp (one of the pricier dishes at $13.95).

Meanwhile, New Wonton Garden is a relatively recent find. Less crowded than “Noodletown”, with waiters decked out in incongruous Hawaiian shirts, the place specializes in__wait for it__great wontons (and dumplings).

The beef stew with noodles and wontons, with soup on the side ($7.95) is one of the tastiest bargains in New York City.

So if you’re looking for ambiance, or a traditional egg roll/spare rib/chow mein meal, by all means avoid these two joints. But if delicious, incredibly cheap food is your goal, you can’t do better.

Great New York Noodletown: 28 1/2 Bowery (corner of Bayard Street)

New Wonton Garden: 79 Mulberry Street

Restaurant Review: Carmine’s

I’m going to start with a controversial choice: Carmine’s restaurant.

Yeah, I know. Just reading the name makes one a) salivate, b) scream with horror, or c) both.

Those who have never visited Carmine’s (I’m talking about the original Upper West Side location, not the midtown tourist trap) may wonder: Why would a southern Italian restaurant that serves tasty, huge portions of reasonably priced food make one run for the hills?

Let us count the ways: The mobs. The noise level. The Jersey Shore ambiance. The two hour wait. The maddening, “Happy Birthday” serenades every 10 seconds.

These sad realities have turned off locals for years, even those who long for the landmark restaurant’s pizza bread, their zuppa de clams, their superior chicken marsala and pastas.

But it doesn’t have to be that way…

THE QUESTION: How to get the heavenly food Carmine’s offers without going through the living hell Carmine’s offers (especially on weekend nights)?

THE ANSWER: Go on Saturday afternoon, between noon and 3 p.m.

For about $10 to $13, you can get a great meal, with enough leftovers to provide you with another great meal or two at home (make sure to order from the luncheon menu).

And it’s QUIET.

And there’s NO WAIT.

And the clientele AREN’T DRESSED IN SWEATS AND SINGING HAPPY BIRTHDAY DRUNK AND OFF KEY.

It’s a totally different experience. A pleasant one. You can even hear your luncheon partner!

Just do me one favor. Don’t tell too many people about this. I’d hate to have the ecstasy of “Carmine’s Day” turn into the agony of “Carmine’s Night.”

2450 Broadway (90th-91st Street)

4 Responses to Food

  1. Randy Schein says:

    There’s also the little known “early bird,” for which there’s no advertised menu! I’m not sure of the exact hours, but you get a great meal for two for about half the price.

  2. Ed Pressman says:

    In SOHO there is a wonderful french-oriented place called Les Bistro des Amis on the southeast corner of Spring at Thompson Street. Have been having lunch and dinner there for years (even had a Sunday brunch). Every person with whom I have eaten there has loved the place. The menu is varied and always quite interesting. It has always been a wonderful dining experience.

  3. Alice Iveson says:

    Hey, I haven’t checked in here for a while, but I will put you on my bloglist so I don’t forget to check back.

  4. Pat Johnson says:

    I loved your article “Casinos will save the world?” Governor Cuomo should be ashamed of himself. Looking forward to your next article.

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